Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and travelers alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious roster of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a worldwide network of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," as stated by a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this historic city is hardly a shock to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has consistently shaped its soul: an immense devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from morning until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and raised to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known delights that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and complicated. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though note that their children are reluctant to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people around the world to learn these tales and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
